Відео

Thanks a lot Matt, so glad you enjoyed it!!

Thanks for watching and the great comment Chuck. I completely understand body parts wearing out! I hope you heal completely and soon. I think you will love having the gloves. You want to get a proper fitting pair, not too tight or too loose. The ones I have are by Atlas. I bought mine at a hardware store but after a little search, I think I've found them on Amazon here: amzn.to/4cJnxOA The only thing is that this is a 12 pack and you definitely don't need 12 pairs. But it at least shows what you should be looking for and hopefully you can find some nearby. Thanks again and let me know how they work for you when you give them a try.

@@JimLangley1 Great! It appears Ace sells those Qty=1. I also found "Gorilla Grip Never Slip, Maximum Grip All-Purpose Gloves" that also look promising. It would be nice to find something that preserves dexterity for pinching/keeping beads in rim valley while wrestling with the tire. Thanks again!

Thanks for sharing the story of your Performance stand Hugo, what a great gift your parents gave you! Appreciate you watching and the nice comment!

Thanks a lot Graham, so glad you enjoyed the story and stand!

Thanks a lot indoor! It does look a bit ugly with blotches of paint over the rusty spots but I am probably going to leave it as-is rather than disturb any remaining DNA from the coach or Anton that might still be there - as we collectors say 'you can't restore originality" 😊

Thanks Graham and good work on your chain waxing. I looked Enigma up and found it here for anyone interested www.selectcyclingproducts.com/ Sounds like it did a nice job of improving your drivetrain. Appreciate you sharing Graham, thank you!

Thanks bikeo, I'm happy you enjoyed it! I'll leave any restoring to whoever gets it after I'm done with it because I would feel too guilty disturbing its originality and hard-earned patina.

Good description Oreo! Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@JimLangley1 everything campy does is a work of art, unreally well though out and beautiful

Really happy you found it helpful BN! Thanks for watching and the great comment!

Thanks a lot Bob, I thought so too!!

My pleasure Mark, thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks a lot Stan, glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate you watching and commenting!

Appreciate you watching and commenting Martin and thanks for sharing about Anton! ❤

Yes it'll stop a click/tick noise but the only issue with WD-40 is that it's really thin so it won't last very long and you'll probably have to keep applying it. But it should work for awhile. Hope this helps.

Thanks Valiant, glad you liked it. Appreciate you watching and commenting.

Thanks for watching EM and sorry to hear your Cube is having issues. The only time I've seen red LEDs is if the battery is really low or about to die. If you charge it fully and you press the button one time, a green LED should appear. If you fully charged the pump - which should take about 20 minutes, and that LED didn't turn green, then my best guess is that the battery is bad or worn out. Hope this helps.

Thanks for watching and commenting Pedro, appreciate it!

Thanks for watching and the great comment Sun, you explained the process very well. Many modern chains have quick links now but they still need to be sized when new and you need a chain tool to remove the extra links. And there are still loads of bikes on the roads with regular derailleur type chains that will benefit from knowing how to use the basic chain tool. When I have time I need to make a more comprehensive video or multiple videos about chains and working on them. Thanks again!

Thanks for watching and the tip Repack, appreciate it. I refer to that as the "Schwinn wheel building method," taught in their mechanics school. It's definitely a nice way to do it once you are at the level where you know how to build wheels. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for recommending those other valves Graham, very helpful. And yes you only need one unless maybe you forget to tighten it and one rattles off or you insist on having matching valves 🤣

@@JimLangley1 lol… I’m afraid I’m in the matching valve camp Jim … 😂

@@Bikeops2021 me too😊

Thanks for watching and commenting. If it doesn't come off like this you have a different model of Praxis crank. If you tell me which model you have (it should be written on the crank), I can give you a link to the specific pdf directions for removing it. One example is their Lyft crank. Those come off by removing the right/drive side crankarm. Here's the directions for that crank: praxiscycles.com/wp-content/uploads/LYFT-G1.G2-COMBINED-DIGI-REVJ.pdf

Thanks for watching and commenting Jake, appreciate it. All the preps I can think of use some form of Teflon as the key ingredient. But maybe there's one out there I haven't discovered yet. And yes, rolling the spokes together is very satisfying - I actually show that in part 2 of this video here ua-cam.com/users/shortsXM2Aah4MfX0 and in my long video here ua-cam.com/video/z4FKL95x6DE/v-deo.html There's another trick I've seen done but don't use myself: you stretch a rubber glove over the top of the jar of SP. You poke a tiny hole in the rubber glove in the center of the cap. Then you push the spoke through the hole and into the prep. When you pull out the spoke the rubber wipes off any excess prep leaving a perfect coat. The tricky part is not pushing the spoke in too far. And doing 1 spoke at a time takes longer. Again I've only seen this, I haven't tried it - but it looked pretty interesting. Thanks again!

Thanks for watching and commenting podge, appreciate it. Yes, you're correct, pedals can make noise too, good point, thank you.

My pleasure Daniel. Thank you for watching and commenting. In case you haven't seen it yet, I also have the easiest to follow beginners wheel building video on UA-cam here: ua-cam.com/video/XUqul03hbZ8/v-deo.html Thanks again!

@@JimLangley1 many thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Thanks for watching and asking about the repair Bob. You can watch the whole repair in the longer video (17 minutes) which is here ua-cam.com/video/MfIIVMNxocw/v-deo.html It's a pretty easy process. You sand through the paint to get down to the cracked area and ensure it's clean all around it. Then you coat the area with epoxy, saturate 2 patches with epoxy and lay them over the cracked area of the frame. You then put some compression tape wrapping it over the patched are just like you'd wrap bar tape. But it's compression tape which when you heat it shrinks. When it shrinks it compresses the patched part of the frame and squeezes out all the extra epoxy and makes the patches as flat as possible. You then put the frame where it's warm to dry - in the sun, in a hot room, etc. You wait overnight or longer, basically until the epoxy sets. Then you remove the compression tape and the frame will be patched. You can smooth the patched area with fine sandpaper and repaint at that point. I didn't repaint cause my Cervelo has a difficult to replicate paint job. That's basically the whole process. Not too difficult really. Hope you're doing great Bob.

Thanks for watching and weighing in on how you like to work Jim. I'm right-handed and I mostly use my left eye too. I completely agree on the value of old spokes. You can use them to fix and make all sorts of useful things - and around the house and yard too. Plus if they're stainless they never rust and always look nice. Thanks Jim!

Thanks a lot for sharing how you do it Felin, appreciate it! 🙏

Excellent Sylvain. To me it's one of those why didn't these exist all along things? Valve caps with core removers have been a thing for Schrader valves forever. Why did it take so long for these Presta versions to arrive, I have no idea.

@@JimLangley1 The cyclists' obsession with weight, I suppose. Why isn't there one of those in every road bike multitool ?

@@sylvainmichaud2262 Good point Sylvain - these valve cap tools are definitely heavier than the plastic ones. And that's a great question about multitools, they really should be in them and it would be so easy to do it.

Thanks a lot pananarknisorn, appreciate you watching and commenting!

My pleasure ddahstan, and thanks so much for watching and the wonderful comment, made my day 🙏. Enjoy your wheel building, let me know if you need any help.

Thanks for watching and the comments Adrian! The chain in the video is the right length for the bike, it's not too long. A too long chain will have noticeable slack in it and it might even rub on the bottom of the pulley or cage. When you install a chain it's easiest if you drape it over the bottom bracket of the frame and don't put it on the chainring yet. That way you'll have slack in the chain making it easy to attach its ends. If you wrap it around the chainring, you'll have to pull on the chain to get the ends to meet because the rear derailleur is pulling it the other way. And this means that the rear derailleur is usually fully retracted when you install a chain and then when you put the chain onto the chainring, the derailleur changes its position under tension. Now to size a new chain, the best way is to count the links in the old chain and size the new one to match. That assumes the old chain was the correct length. Okay? I hope this is helpful and thanks again!

Thanks a lot for watching and appreciate you sharing your tips radio, thank you!🙏

Thanks for watching and the question Jonny. The way I seat the spokes to the hubs is to either press them with my palms/heels of my hands where they bow to straighten them and seat the elbows or hit them there with a rubber mallet. Seating the heads in the hub happens during the building process as most modern hubs are machined for it to happen. If working with vintage hubs with undersize non- machined hubs you still can need to do it if the hubs were never built. Hope this is helpful.

@@JimLangley1 Yep its helpful. I'm new to building wheels so its good to learn a variety of methods from various experienced builders.

@@jonnyoneplate I just remembered that in my full wheel building video I show another way to flatten and seat the drive and pulling spokes at the same time with the handle of a screwdriver: ua-cam.com/video/XUqul03hbZ8/v-deo.html

Thanks for watching and sharing Manki.

@@JimLangley1 Yeah good video, I just can't deal with this stuff. The main problem is probably that instead of 50% of my weight being on the rear wheel its more like 85% due to the design of the bike (semi-recumbent cruiser). I could build a wheel with cargo bike specced components but the parts alone are the same amount as these chinesium wheels and it might still fail.

@@mankihonda983 thanks for explaining more Manki. I built 2 recumbents and rode them a lot - that was many years ago but I loved those bikes. You're 100% correct about most of the weight being on the rear wheel. But the wheel can take it if it's a good wheel. I understand that wheel parts are expensive and getting more expensive but just in case you decide someday to build one, the main reason spokes break on any wheel is because they are not quality spokes. The great majority of stock wheels you buy are made with terrible quality spokes that will eventually break if you ride much at all. You can usually fix wheels that break spokes simply by replacing all the spokes with quality spokes. I recommend DT Swiss or Sapim stainless-steel spokes. For a cargo wheel you would want to match the gauge of the spokes that are in the wheel as usually cargo bikes have heavier gauge spokes. By the way, you can tell if a wheel has lousy spokes by seeing if a magnet sticks to the spokes - really sticks, not just a slight pull. If the magnet sticks, the spokes are not made of a steel that will hold up to the stress wheels put on them and will likely start breaking soon if you ride enough. Hope this is helpful.

@@JimLangley1 Yeah I've had rims made with strongest spokes available for regular bike and they have stood up to the abuse so far. Also who knows if these magnesium alloy wheels are strong or not, not much info about them anywhere, I guess the ones that were made for BMX are strong, but I don't know if these are comparable.

@@mankihonda983 thanks Manki! Look forward to hearing how those wheels do hold up for you.

My pleasure Moto! Thanks for watching and commenting!

Thanks for watching and the question, Adem. I have a comprehensive video covering all the different things used for keeping spokes from binding and ensuring they stay tight that you might want to watch: ua-cam.com/video/z4FKL95x6DE/v-deo.html To answer your question about grease vs SP, the great thing about Spoke Prep is that it dries, so it will only make a mess when it's wet. So you just don't use the spokes until the Prep dries. With grease, it stays wet and tends to make a mess while you're building wheels. So you'll want to keep cleaning with something like isopropyl alcohol as you work (you don't want grease on the rims with rim braking and it tends to travel and might reach disc brakes too). But, as far as if it would be a problem with the quality of the wheel, grease would work fine for building and would help prevent binding during truing and tensioning. It would last for some time too so the wheel would likely still be easy to true some years later as long as you didn't ride in the rain a lot, etc. (that would wash out the grease). The one thing grease would not do is set-up, i.e. provide a grip for the nipples on the spokes. That's one of the key benefits of Spoke Prep. It keeps the nipples from turning on their own which helps make sure the spokes don't loosen. And because it's dry, it doesn't make a mess so you don't have to keep cleaning the rim, hub, spokes, nipples when you're building the wheel. Hope this is helpful.

@@JimLangley1 Thanks for the reply and information! Interesting point about the spoke-prep being dry and not washing out. I've used grease for the past few years opting to start the build with a lanolin-based grease and then later down the line oiling with a drying boiled linseed oil (also helps with preventing corrosion when using alloy nipples); I've found the grease helps the spokes get up to tension easily and lets the spoke turn super easy on the nipple at the higher tensions so you don't mar up the nipples if you're building with worn out spoke keys. As for spoke setting, I haven't had any issues with them coming loose before but it's an excellent point that I've never considered... You learn something everyday!

Yikes! Somebody might think you’re serious doghouse - definitely do NOT use red loctite.

@@JimLangley1 I've seen this recommended by Barnett and others. Low strength 222 ("purple") Loctite does seem to be a fairly widely accepted spoke prep.

@@jokeweston I talk about the pros and cons of using loctite in my long video that I linked to in the last reply Jake. But basically loctite does work but it cures fast so you need to build the wheel more quickly or deal with spoke wind-up. Yes, you'll hear that you can drip it on after the build and it will still work but I haven't found that that technique really works.. the loctite didn't seem to get into the threads enough that way. It does if you drip it on before starting to screw down the nipples but then you run into it drying too fast as you build the wheel. But you should try it if you're curious. Even when the loctite cures you can turn the nipples but you'll probably want a spoke holder tool to prevent twist/wind-up. Park Tool has a nice one and Unior does too.

@@JimLangley1 Good point! Thanks!

Thanks a lot, appreciate you watching and commenting. 🙏

🤣and frustration!

@@JimLangley1 Yeah but let's substitute frustrations by _palpitations_ in order to be able to refer it as the 4P rule. 4 ? you say. Yeah ! Don't do the proper Preparation and it will lead to Perspiration, Palpitations and in the worst case Procrastination.

@@sylvainmichaud2262 "the 4P rule" Sylvain, I like it - and it applies to all of bicycle mechanics too.

Thanks for asking Scott. I have another video where I go over the pros and cons of all the options for keeping spokes tight, including boiled linseed oil ua-cam.com/video/z4FKL95x6DE/v-deo.html But, to answer your question here, I much prefer Spoke Prep: it doesn't smell or present any risk of causing a fire; it dries very quickly and it's not messy to work with. People who like linseed oil often talk about how inexpensive it is and that's true. Spoke Prep is about $25 a jar amzn.to/3zeuZCL Thing is you can build a lot of wheels with that little jar of Spoke Prep so I don't see it as that expensive and for me it's worth every penny to avoid all the issues with linseed oil. Hope this is helpful.

Thanks for watching and letting me know the video was helpful Tom, appreciate it!

Thanks for watching! It sounds like you're enjoying some ICAN wheels too. Mine are still going strong. You asked who else has carbon wheels this good for under $700. In another review here ua-cam.com/video/OlcpWDKIU54/v-deo.html I look at a new set of carbon gravel wheels from the Company EliteWheels. And it turns out that they have some under $700 - carbon road disc wheels. I haven't looked at or ridden them but their wheels that I did inspect and rode a ton have been great. So I think their other wheels are likely very nice too.